This piece of prose is specially written for my housemates. I’ve been enjoying this hobby quite a lot, but now that various living creatures are involved, the story changes a bit. Hence, this write-up. These notes mainly focus on how to act in cases of absence, mishaps, and other situations. It will never, ever, ever be fully complete…The control unit for the aquarium is an Arduino DUE, and the software is based on a copy of the AFSM standard. The photo is not recent.

Normal Operation

When everything is running smoothly, the aquarium is a beautiful sight and requires only regular maintenance. The aquarium “mimics” a slice of nature, which of course is incomparable to a real reef. However, through various tools, I try to maintain balance as much as possible. This is achieved through a coarse filter (the so-called filter sock) and a skimmer, also known as a protein skimmer. The skimmer is the most crucial filter, as it removes the majority of waste products from the water. Additionally, additives (usually a mix of specific trace elements) are added to the water daily, and periodic water changes are carried out. During a water change, I replace approximately 10% of the water with freshly made seawater, prepared using osmosis water and special aquarium salt. On a regular basis, I analyze the water and determine if adjustments are needed. I still have a lot to learn in this regard and rely on forums and visits to aquarium shops for guidance.

A Brief Overview of the Setup in the Attic:

  • The Aquarium and Its Filter:
    The aquarium is a tank containing about 160 liters of saltwater (4 liters per cm), rocks, and living organisms. Below it is a filter with a maximum capacity of 65 liters, though it typically holds about 30 liters. In case of emergencies, such as a power outage, additional water from the aquarium will flow back into the filter. I’ve calculated that this backflow will not exceed 20 liters.
  • The Control Unit:
    The control unit manages all pumps, valves, temperature sensors, level sensors, the pH meter, the skimmer, and the heaters. A PC can be connected to the control unit (via the side port). The unit has two buttons with illuminated rings. This unit MUST NEVER be turned off, as it controls all components.
    In normal operation, the left button on the control panel is illuminated green, as shown in the photo above; everything is set to automatic mode. Additional information via the PC connection is not necessary. The water level in the rightmost compartment of the sump is around 10 cm, and the aquarium’s overflows produce little noise. The flow pump on the right wall of the aquarium is running, and the return pump (moving water from the filter back to the aquarium) is operating quietly or with minimal noise. The filter sock (coarse filter from the overflows) is not overflowing. The skimmer cup on top of the skimmer is not full, and its contents are dark in color.

Accessing Additional Information

If you want more details, start the program on the PC. Normally, the icons below are present on the desktop. Double-click on “Poseidon Reef.” The program connects to the control unit and displays real-time information. Upon connecting, the screen below will appear.
In the following chapters, I’ll provide more detailed information regarding the operation. The image below shows a normal situation.

What to monitor:

  • The aquarium water level should be near “full.”
  • The filter level should be about half full.
  • The temperature should remain between 24°C and 26°C.
  • The pumps and heating element in the aquarium should be running (“1”).
  • The water flow from the pump to the aquarium should be between 450 and 600 liters per minute.
  • The valves in the supply and return lines should be open.
  • An open valve is aligned with the pipe.
  • A closed valve is perpendicular to the pipe.

Meaning of the Buttons on the Control Panel

The control unit features two push buttons with illuminated edges.
The ACCEPT/RESET button has multiple functions depending on the color of the edge and the duration of the press.

Independent of the Status:

  • Simultaneous press of both buttons for more than 5 seconds:
    The system enters alarm mode. Only critical components, such as the lights and circulation pump, remain operational. The edge of the button flashes red (alarm status). Valves move to their safe positions, and valve routes are monitored.
    Manual operation of valves will immediately trigger a valve error (the valve flashes red with a yellow frame around it).
    • To acknowledge the alarm: Press the ACCEPT/RESET button. The edge will now turn orange, and using the HMI (Human-Machine Interface), all components can be manually controlled, including the valves.
    • To reset the system: Press ACCEPT/RESET again. The system will attempt to restart automatic operation.

Button Status and Indicators:

  • Blue Status:
    The system is performing an action, and no user interaction is required. For example, this occurs during the ATO function (Automatic Top-Off, refilling evaporated water with osmosis water).
  • Flashing Blue:
    The system is awaiting user input. Refer to the HMI for more information.
  • Flashing Red:
    The system is in alarm mode. Critical functions remain operational, and valves move to safe positions.
    • To acknowledge the alarm: Press the button. Manual actions become possible.
  • Orange Status:
    The system is in an acknowledged alarm state, allowing manual actions.
    • To reset the system: Press the button again, and the system will attempt to restart automatic operation.

The SALT Button: Functions for Salt Water Replacement

  • Press the SALT button (longer than 3 seconds):
    This initiates the salt water replacement procedure. The ACCEPT/RESET button lights up in solid blue.

Important: This semi-automatic process opens the valves toward the drain.

  • Ensure there is an empty jerrycan of at least 15 liters placed under the drain connection.

The system will drain the last compartment of the sump, leaving about 1 cm of water. The RO system (Reverse Osmosis) will then start and fill the compartment with RO water. Once sufficient water is added, the RO stops, and a salt recommendation is displayed on the screen and in the HMI (under the “CONTENT” field). The ACCEPT/RESET button flashes blue to indicate that user action is required.

  1. Add the recommended amount of salt and press the SALT button again for 3 seconds.
    Both ACCEPT/RESET and SALT buttons will light up in solid blue.
  2. The system starts the pump and circulates the water and salt in the last compartment of the sump.
    • When the temperature of the water in the sump exceeds that of the aquarium, the salt is fully dissolved, and the pump stops.
    • At this point, it is wise to measure the salinity and make any necessary adjustments. The pump can be controlled manually in this mode.
  3. The ACCEPT/RESET button will flash blue. By pressing it for more than 3 seconds, the system will return all valves to their normal positions, and everything will switch back to automatic operation.

Note:
Ensure the salt balance is minimally impacted. Measure the values in the aquarium and sump; they should be identical!

The Dosing System:

Further details on the dosing system are available in the following section.

Aquarium System Overview and Daily Maintenance

Dosing System (4-Channel)

Above is an image of the 4-channel dosing system. Liquids are dosed directly into the aquarium using a DIY control system based on the AFSM standard. Setting the dosing frequency is straightforward, with pumps delivering approximately 40 ml/min.Before use, calibrate each channel’s capacity. For instance, measure the output for 30 seconds, double the result, and enter it as the per-minute capacity on the control screen. Calibration is essential because liquids vary in viscosity.Currently, the system doses ATI#1, ATI#2, and vodka (to reduce high phosphate and nitrate levels). If a buffer runs low, the system displays an “empty” alert on the HMI and indicates it with a blue LED on the panel.

Refilling RO Water

Water evaporation is automatically managed by the ATO (Automatic Top-Off) system. This involves components like the filter’s level sensor, TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) meter, and the RO (Reverse Osmosis) system. Here’s a summary of the process:

The RO system is located under the boiler. It uses high pressure to filter tap water, separating it into:

  • Wastewater (brown hose)
  • Permeate water (blue hose) – this purified water is free of salts, lime, and minerals and is used to replenish the aquarium’s evaporated water.

Evaporation removes only water, leaving salts and minerals in the aquarium. Refilling with RO water prevents salt and mineral buildup that could poison the aquarium over time.

How the System Works

The rightmost compartment of the filter is monitored to maintain an average water level of about 10 cm. When the level drops below a preset threshold, the system activates the RO unit to refill the water until it reaches the upper limit. These thresholds are set as parameters in the control system.

  • The refilling process is fully automatic and indicated by a continuous blue ring around the ACCEPT/RESET button. No user intervention is needed.

Manual Overrides:
Through the PC, the RO unit can be manually turned on/off, or the filter level can be set to a fixed value. When in manual mode, it’s advised to set the filter level to 400 (recommended height). This disables automatic RO operations.

System Blockages:

  1. If the filter’s water level is abnormally low (e.g., due to a leak or sensor failure), the system halts.
  2. If the RO unit runs for more than 15 minutes continuously, it stops. This unusual scenario could lower the aquarium’s salinity.

Maintenance Tip:
Over time, the RO filter becomes less effective. Check the TDS reading on the PC display. During RO operation, the TDS should reach 0. If not, replace the RO filter.

Daily Maintenance Tasks

  1. Check Pump Operations:
    • The flow pumps in the aquarium and the return pump (from the filter to the aquarium) must run. Normal output is 500-600 L/h.
    • If a pump isn’t working, contact me.
  2. Inspect Lighting:
    • The lighting follows a day-night cycle. At 14:30, “the sun” is at its peak; at night, “the moon” emits a faint blue glow.
    • If the lights aren’t functioning, contact me.
  3. Empty the Skimmer Cup:
    • The skimmer, located in the middle filter compartment, collects protein waste. When the cup is about half full, remove and clean it:
      1. Stop the skimmer (HMI)
      2. Detach the cup (held by a rubber ring) and remove it vertically.
      3. Clean the cup with water (do not use soap) and reassemble.
    • Ensure no dirty water enters the filter compartment.
  4. Replace the Gafzak (Prefilter):
    • When the prefilter overflows, replace it:
      1. Unhook the plastic frame and remove the bag, allowing it to drain over the filter.
      2. Install a clean bag, positioning the outflow pipes inside it.
  5. Check the Filter’s Right Compartment Level:
    • This should measure around 10 cm (yellow ruler). If it deviates by ±3 cm, contact me.
  6. Inspect the Aquarium Overflow:
    • Use a teaspoon to remove any snails. Return them to the aquarium.
  7. Verify Aquarium Temperature:
    • The heater’s display (back left) should show 24-25°C.
    • If the display is off or exceeds 25.75°C, the fans (right side) will activate and turn off once the temperature drops below 25.5°C. Contact me if the display is off.
  8. Check the Dosing System:
    • Inspect the dosing bottles to ensure they contain liquid, and verify the hoses are secure and leak-free.
    • Report any issues to me.
  9. Control Panel Status:
    • Two buttons on the panel have illuminated rings.
  1. The left button may glow green, yellow, orange, or blue.
  2. The right button always glows blue.
  3. If neither is lit, or the system is unresponsive, contact me.

Additional Notes

The aquarium operates semi-automatically. Certain actions, like RO refilling (a click from the valve followed by water flow) or dosing pump maintenance (hourly line cleaning), may occur unexpectedly. If the system enters alarm mode, the left button will flash red. Contact me immediately. For more information, the PC offers detailed insights. Use it to your advantage!

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